The rules dictate that you wash carefully before entering the pool, and I was relieved that as I was going through this ritual I had my back turned to all those present. I sat on a stool close to the pool and washed as quickly as I could, then skipped into the pool and hid my torso deep in the water.

It was hot but very comfortable. We were all well immersed so there was not the slightest hint of embarrassment about our state of undress. One of my friends then suggested we move to another pool, outside. I was extremely hesitant, not wanting to be seen naked in front of my friends, but finally plucked up the courage once they had shown the way for me.

The outdoor pool was more interesting. Rocks were piled up in a pavilion-like area, two sides without walls. The air was fresh and a bit chilly, which made it slightly uncomfortable before plunging into the pool, but once I was settled in this pool It seemed a lot more enjoyable to soak in than the indoor one.

As we luxuriated in the water a few people came and went. A young woman took a white towel into the pool, and an older Japanese woman, apparently a staff member, spoke earnestly to her as she grabbed the towel from the water, folded it into a square and placed it on the bather's head.

For all of us the onsen experience proved to be the perfect end of a highly enjoyable day. The norm at hot springs baths in China is to wear swimming costumes, and the Japanese way of doing things was liberating, freeing us from tight garb and invigorating us physically and mentally. For the first time for me, a dyed-in-the-wool prude, the idea of naturism did not seem that odd at all. Rather than being hung up on whether you are fat or thin, the main thing is that it all makes you feel good within yourself.

That initial outing set the tone for the next two days, and we thoroughly enjoyed going into the water just after getting up in the morning, in the afternoon, before dinner and just before retiring for the night.

One of these long dips provided a sensation I will never forget: lounging deep in the hot water as cool drops of rain washed down my face, a delightful coming together of hot and cold.

Because of the inclement weather we never did get to see the majesty of Mount Fuji, but with the exhilaration of the onsen, those inhibitions about our being naked evaporated with the steam and I finally understood why those snow monkeys always look as though they do not have a care in the world.