The night market in Siem Reap is the place to find souvenirs and local handicrafts.

Life's a beach

Ultimately, one or two days are enough in Phnom Penh. From here, most head to the splendid ruins of the north or to the relaxing beaches and sea views of the southwest.

We took a minibus southwest ($10 a seat) and arrived just under five hours later in Sihanoukville. This coastal city has a beach for all tastes: from Serendipity and Ochheauteal, backpacker favorites and nighttime party spots, to Otres, a laid-back stretch about 10 minutes from the center.

Kayaks, jet skis and surfing equipment can be hired at most beaches, while boat tours and ferries are available to take you to the outlying islands, such as Koh Rong (also known as Monkey Island) or the smaller but equally calm Koh Takiev. The islands all have beach bungalows for those who want to stay overnight.

As many tour operators stick to a fairly rigid schedule and tend to overload their vessels, we opted instead to rent a private boat for a day ($50 after haggling), which allowed the luxury of staying out after dark to snorkel among the sparkling plankton.

From here, you can also visit Kampong Nup Lok, an old fishing village that offers some nice views, and Ream National Park, a large mangrove nature reserve about 30 minutes' drive east. A boat tour to the park will cost about $25, but they can be disappointing. Alternatively, you can arrive there by tuk tuk and hire a park ranger to lead you on a walking tour (usually $5, although best to call ahead).

After relaxing on the beach for a few days, we boarded a plane at Sihanoukville airport bound for Siem Reap. Flying takes about an hour, although buses are available and take about eight to 10 hours.

Ancient history

Siem Reap boasts Cambodia's most famous attraction, while the city itself has grown into a fun and relaxing destination for international travelers.

A visit here would not be complete without a tour of the 12th century Angkor Wat and the many other ancient and varied temples "rediscovered" by French explorers about 300 years ago.