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God's own country

By Chen Liang (China Daily)
Updated: 2008-10-23 09:08

Half an hour later, we were sitting around a long table on a hectare-long sand bar on Pandanon Island. Shaded by trees and facing the white sandy beach and emerald blue water, we tucked into a barbecue buffet prepared by the resort. Icy cold drinks, fresh seafood and much tropical fruit later, some of my companions went sunbathing, while I chose to sip coffee and let my mind drift away.

Just as we were ready to leave, I understood why this island has been considered a paradise by island hoppers, divers, picnic goers and sunbathers.

Cebu abounds in history as the country's oldest Spanish colonial city. Our first stop on the island heritage tour was Lapu-Lapu Monument.

It stands on the site where, on April 27, 1521, the local chieftain Lapu-Lapu defeated and killed Ferdinand Magellan, the leader of the Spanish fleet, cutting short the latter's circumnavigation of the world. Magellan was the first Western explorer to land on the Philippine's shores. Lapu-Lapu was among the first Filipinos to resist the occupation of a Western fleet and is considered one of the country's greatest historical figures.

A few years after Magellan's death, Spain colonized the Philippines. In 1866, the Spanish government ordered a marker built on this very site, to honor Magellan. After the Philippines' independence from Spain in 1898, a statue of Lapu-Lapu was built in front of Magellan's. There are now two monuments standing side by side in a compound facing Magellan Bay.

As our tour continued, I realized that Magellan played an important part in shaping the country's history.

Fort San Pedro is the country's smallest and oldest triangular bastion built by Spanish settlers, Magellan's followers, in 1565 and took 100 years to build.

Magellan's Cross is a replica of the original one, which was planted by Magellan during his arrival in 1521 to mark the spot where the first Christian Filipinos were baptized. The cross was housed in an octagonal pavilion. Its ceiling tells the story of Magellan's introduction of Christianity to the island.

The Basilica del Sto Nino is certainly the most popular historical and religious site in Cebu. Built in 1565 by the Spanish, the monastery houses the oldest and most celebrated Christian relics in the country - the image of Senor Sto Nino de Cebu, or Infant Jesus. The image was given by Ferdinand Magellan as a gift to Queen Juana at her baptism on April 21, 1521.

Our group saw hundreds of devoted Christians gathered in the monastery, praying in front of the holy image or lighting candles in the compound. It felt like Magellan's imprint on the island was everywhere.

Outside the monastery, however, the streets were dominated by jeepneys (jeeps-cum-buses) and tricycles and peddlers selling religious souvenirs did brisk business. The city was alive with everyday hustle and bustle, with the church forming the backdrop to the city's complicated history.

After the day's exertions, I was delighted to take refuge at Chi, the spa within the Shangri-La resort. Inspired by traditional Asian healing philosophies, the treatment is based on the principle of restoring balance and harmony to mind and body. The Chi treatment lasted one and a half hours and I felt invigorated enough to explore the island a bit more.

I chose to go snorkeling at the resort-owned cove and that was even better than that at Hilutungan.

My only regret was not doing a night dive around the sanctuary, which could be easily arranged by the resort's marine sports center.

But then, I reckoned, no trip can be perfect without at least one regret.

(China Daily 10/23/2008 page19)

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