Hans Zahner may be the newest French celebrity chef in Shanghai - almost as fresh off the boat as his Fine de Claire oyster dish. Untainted by the strong local influence of going fusion or fancy, chef Zahner strictly adheres to his philosophy of using three to four ingredients at most in one dish. For this oyster, a type favored by those who favor a less fleshy morsel, he minimizes the added ingredients down to Schrenki caviar and two pieces of borage leaf. If there is one more thing you could ask for, it should be simply and unsurprisingly, some champagne... .

Sir Elly's at Peninsula Shanghai, 13/F, 32 Zhongshan Road E1, Huangpu district, Shanghai, 021-2327-6756.