Yet, despite the prices, the Ultraviolet is not turning a profit, according to Christopher St Cavish, a food writer based in Shanghai who used to work with Pairet. To feed a table of 10, the restaurant's capacity, and prepare a 20-course set menu, chefs outnumber guests, and a 1,000-square-meter warehouse is used to support the 80-square-meter dining room.

"I know that Paul Pairet and his team were disappointed last year because they didn't get three stars. They came and spoke to us, and we told them what our criteria are. I think they really make the effort to take the cooking to a higher level," Ellis said.

In response to criticism of whether a food guide from Westerners can comprehend the complexity and variety of Chinese cuisine, Ellis noted that the majority of the Shanghai guide's inspectors are Chinese, and from different parts of the country.

"Not everybody has to agree with us. We have our unique way of looking at things and unique voice. But in general, I think we tend to capture a good photo of what the food scene is. And it gets better over time. We are certainly not encyclopedic. We don't pretend to cover everything," he said.

First launched in 1900 to boost demand for cars and tires, the Michelin Guide, the most coveted list for chefs around the world, now has guides in 28 countries. In 2009, it arrived in Asia, with Hong Kong as its first stop.

While Ellis said he is unable to confirm specific cities or timing, he allowed that more Chinese cities will have their own guides, and Asia is going to feature prominently in the future of Michelin Guides.