Former basketball star Yao Ming promotes his Yao Family Wines produced in California's Napa Valley.  [Photo provided to China Daily]

The "rooster reserve", however, has not been part of these meals－unless you and a group of friends spring for one of the 688 magnums produced for the upcoming Chinese New Year. Ten percent of the proceeds from each bottle, priced at about 8,000 yuan ($1,150), are being donated to a charity in China.

Who was the biggest winemaker at the recent ProWine 2016 fair in Shanghai? Measured in centimeters, that was easily Yao Ming, who was there to promote his Yao Family Wines produced in California's Napa Valley. The popular retired NBA basketball star also participated in a master class with a team from the California Wine Institute.

At a recent Sunday brunch in Beijing, the wines were all Italian, but the mindset was Chinese: Even the first wine served was red. On top of that, the wines from Podernuovo a Palazzone were paired with a delectable menu by chef Marino D'Antonio at Opera Bombana. The combo made for a superb afternoon. Featured wines presented by the importer Sarment included the wineries' fine Argirio 2012, a Tuscan cabernet Franc with a touch of cabernet sauvignon. The open bouquet has hints of cassis, coriander, allspice white chocolate, cocoa butter and nettles; the wine has a long finish on the palate with a pleasant minerality. Guests also sampled vintages of the winery's Sortirio (100 percent sangiovese) and Therra (a blend of sangiovese, montepulciano, cabernet sauvignon and merlot). All are currently available at fine-dining establishments in China.