A lightly garlicked scampi with angel-hair pasta is among the delicacies in the Italian eatery. [Photo provided to China Daily]

The short list of desserts includes the obligatory but far from ordinary tiramisu, which Sanna renders into a creamy cloud of bliss.

The final treat worth noting is the well-chosen wine list, which can range to pricy vintages that you'd expect in a Kempinski-class hotel. What's noteworthy, however, is that there are 100 wines on offer by the glass, an extraordinary offering in a city where diners who don't want a whole bottle are stuck with the house plonk or a handful of choices.

At Via Roma, we were offered about a dozen choices from a trolley cart, and if a cheerfully offered taste doesn't produce a winner, there are plenty more available. No prices on display, so ask to avoid sticker shock when the bill is presented. But we found plenty to choose from in the hundred-and-something-yuan range - as well as divine drops we'll save for a special occasion, like winning the lottery.)

All in all, Via Roma is an approachable Italian gem in a fine dining setting that's been well worth the wait.

Contact the writer at michaelpeters@chinadaily.com.cn

If you go 

Via Roma

Inside the Kempinski Beijing

50 Liangmaqiao Lu (Road), Chaoyang district, Beijing.

010-6465-3388 Ext 4215.

Average cost per person: 600 yuan ($97) (plus alcohol and 15 percent service charge)

Recommended: Pan-Fried Sea Bass and King Crab with Zucchini Flowers, Sausage and Porcini Risotto, Braised Veal Ossobuco, Via Roma Pizza, Tiramisu.