[Photo provided to Shanghai Star]

In fact I detected hints of a more southern influence, like the equally famous Cantonese roast duck. My suspicions were later confirmed by the chef himself, who admitted that he married the best techniques from both north and south to create his own unique bird.

Apart from the addictive wraps that go into the mouth so easily, Chef Sanji and his duck provide the perfect Kodak moment for visitors to Shanghai, only it’s more likely to be shots taken with a smartphone these days.

Dragon Phoenix, the Fairmont Peace Hotel’s Chinese restaurant, boasts classic Chinese decor and million-dollar views of the Bund. For slightly less than 400 yuan, the Fairmont Peace duck is served with all the traditional accoutrements.

The skin is served in wraps with sweet bean sauce and fruit and vegetable julienne, the meat is shredded and stir-fried in a separate dish and the carcass is made into a bowl of rich duck bouillon with Chinese cabbage or other seasonal greens.

Other dishes on the menu are drawn from the favorite classical repertoire including another iconic dish – the sweet and sour Mandarin fish skilfully filleted to look like a squirrel’s bushy tail.

It is reminiscent of American Chinese food, with its love of the sweet and sour or lobster sauce.

But this, however, is the real thing, and the sweet and sour Mandarin fish is the litmus test for all aspiring Chinese cooks. At the Fairmont Peace Hotel, it’s pretty obvious the whole kitchen crew had passed with flying colors.

IF YOU GO

Dragon Phoenix Chinese Restaurant 8th floor, Fairmont Peace Hotel 20 Nanjing Road East, Shanghai.

021-6138-6880