Assorted satay is a typical Malaysian dish served at Cafe Malacca. Rebecca Lo / For China Daily

Cafe Malacca harks back to a simpler period when Malaysia's ethnic cuisines were dominated by robust flavors. Rebecca Lo samples some home-style favorites, in Hong Kong.

I have to admit: I get very confused when people talk about Malaysian food. That is because the cuisine is dramatically different in every Malaysian town. The laksa of Penang is worlds apart from the Cantonese-inspired seafood dishes served in Kota Kinabalu, and Kuala Lumpur eateries dish up Hainan chicken rice that doesn't exist on Hainan island.

Like Chinese cuisine, Malaysian fare is dependent on local culture, available produce and each chef's individual flare. Whether the chef is a crusty street stall man with a wok or working in a 5-star hotel, authentically good eats can be found in every corner of the country.

Cafe Malacca helps to untangle the confusion by offering signature dishes from Malaysia all in one spot. In a way, the casual all-day dining restaurant in Traders Hotel Hong Kong is a throw back to Shangri-La Hotel & Resorts' roots. Not only does it present the best of founder Robert Kuok's home country on assorted plates, the atmosphere has the vibrancy typical of small town Malaysian hawker stalls - in more posh and hygienic surrounds, naturally.

You can almost always get a table without a reservation, even on Friday or Saturday nights, as many diners tend to grab a bowl of noodles and go.

To the left of the reception desk is a U-shape open kitchen with buffet lines, popular with the lunch crowd who prefer the soup and salad specials. To the right is the open dining area, with a variety of seating options including armchairs for lounging and sharing dishes, benches for large groups, and intimate tables for two. There is also a private dining room available for functions beside the elevator bank.