When Cao Weiran first laid eyes on Shui Tu (Water Studies), a masterpiece by Southern Song dynasty (1127-1279) artist Ma Yuan, she was instantly captivated. The painting's ripples — the delicate streams and subtle undulations — seemed to mirror the folds of her own eyelids, forging an intimate and unexpected connection between art and self.
"I knew immediately that I had to bring this painting to life on my own face," said the 29-year-old.
A graduate of Shanghai Academy of Fine Arts, Cao drew inspiration from every shade in Water Studies to create a retro-inspired smoky eye suitable for daily wear. She shared her creation on the Chinese social media platform Xiaohongshu (RedNote), where it quickly captured the imagination of young users. Among her nearly 100,000 followers, 70 percent are aged 18 to 35, reflecting the growing fascination with heritage-inspired beauty.
Cao's work is part of a broader trend: traditional Chinese artistry is increasingly shaping contemporary cosmetic expression. This March, Henan Broadcasting launched Zhongguo Hongzhuang (which roughly translates to "Chinese Glamour"), a variety show dedicated to Chinese-style makeup. Its accompanying Xiaohongshu campaign, zhuangdian dongfang (Beauty of the East), reached 120 million views in just two weeks, inspiring enthusiasts across the country to reinterpret classical beauty in their own ways.
Cao appears as a cast member on the show.
"In recent years, looks inspired directly by classical Chinese visual traditions have grown in popularity, with styles and elements becoming more diverse than ever," she explained.
Beyond everyday appearances, Cao treats makeup as a creative canvas. She draws inspiration from ancient paintings, cultural relics, Chinese animation and nature.
"Traditional Chinese philosophy emphasizes harmony between human and nature," she said. "In my work, I try to paint the universe on the face, using colors and lines to recreate China's landscapes."
This approach — that personal adornment can be inspired by any facet of Chinese culture — has sparked innovation among other enthusiasts.
Among them is Tao Yalun, 28, a beauty blogger based in Chengdu, Sichuan province, who transforms her knowledge of traditional culture into wearable art.
One of her most celebrated creations drew on a national-level intangible cultural heritage: cork carving. She translated the warm brown tones into cosmetic designs and crafted wooden headpieces from oak using cork-carving techniques, evoking a female figure from the era of Wu Zetian (624-705), China's only empress.
"Wood, as an art medium, has a certain strength," Tao explained. "So I chose the most powerful period of female rule in history as my inspiration."
Tao's work has resonated beyond China. When the US restricted access to TikTok in early 2025, many international users migrated to Xiaohongshu — dubbed "TikTok refugees". During this period, her follower count jumped from 90,000 to 150,000.
"Many international users not only appreciated my cosmetic designs and costumes, but also asked about the historical stories and legends behind the characters I created," she recalled.
The global appeal of Chinese-style beauty is echoed by another enthusiast in Anhui province who goes by the pseudonym Yonglan and believes that makeup can serve as a "universal language" that transcends words.
"Visual expression is about resonance," she explained. "Colors, lines and energy convey elegance and subtlety, creating an approachable expression of Chinese femininity that instantly connects with people."
Yonglan has experimented across cultures. For example, she created a Halloween look using the upward sweep of traditional Chinese fox-eye eyeliner, rather than Western-style heavy blended shadows, paired with classic Chinese red instead of the typical orange, purple or black.
"Halloween is often stereotyped as being grotesque or scary. I wanted to reinterpret it through Chinese aesthetics," she said.
She has observed that this rising trend is also influencing the beauty industry. Last year, Chinese brand Timage released an eyeshadow and blush palette inspired by ancient paintings, while Florasis designed lipstick packaging modeled after traditional porcelain and the concentric lock — small, intricate and exquisitely crafted.
"Artistry has a shared underlying logic," Yonglan added. "The essence of Chinese-style makeup isn't about display — it's about expression. It draws people in through aesthetic appeal, creating an instinctive bond."
