MODERN SHIFT

After the reform and opening up in the late 1970s, China's rapid economic growth sped up the pace of life, turned the country into the "world's factory," and saw a proliferation of fast-food franchises. At the same time, China's noodle tradition took on a modern, consumer-oriented twist, catering to a growing appetite for global flavors among Chinese diners.

In the early 1990s, restaurants called "California beef noodles" sprang up across major Chinese cities, becoming a must-try for anyone caught up in the craze. It was only years later that people realized there was no such thing as California beef noodles, and that what had truly drawn them was not the noodles themselves, but their curiosity about the wider world.

Noodles from around the world have found their way into the Chinese market -- Japanese ramen, Italian spaghetti, Vietnamese pho -- each attracting diners eager to explore new flavors. Certain noodle chains expanded rapidly, with Ajisen Ramen, a popular Japanese ramen franchise, operating nearly 800 bustling stores across China at its peak.

In another development, instant noodles became increasingly popular and were even considered a luxury, prized for their variety of flavors and convenience. In the early years, instant noodles from Taiwan, such as Uni-President, opened up a new world of tastes and convenience for Chinese mainland residents and gained a significant share of the market. Office white-collar workers and millions of migrant workers across the country became loyal consumers.

Liu Dangcheng noted that, as a classic convenience food, instant noodles have long been valued mainly for their ease of preparation. Yet as society developed, a greater variety of convenient alternatives has emerged, and rising health awareness has relegated instant noodles back to the role of a meal substitute.