Blush of success

In China, more consumers are turning to domestic beauty brands, driving strong growth in local products. At the same time, the country's cosmetics industry is being highly influenced by social media and e-commerce platforms.

In 2022, for example, the sales of domestic Chinese brands on Douyin grew 110 percent year-on-year, according to a Xinhua News Agency report.

From budget-friendly names like Into You and Judydoll to premium brands such as Mao Geping and Florasis, Chinese beauty labels are gaining widespread popularity.

In the first 11 months of 2024, the export volume of Chinese beauty products and toiletries reached 1.19 million metric tons, marking an 18.2 percent increase compared with last year, General Administration of Customs data shows. Export value was $6.53 billion, up 9.4 percent on a yearly basis.

In addition, a growing number of Chinese beauty products have entered the US market. These brands are competing with established international names by offering special pricing while emphasizing design and quality.

Florasis, a cosmetic brand started in Hangzhou, Zhejiang province, was praised by US beauty guru and influencer Jeffree Star as "the world's most beautiful makeup" for its designs, which incorporate traditional Chinese elements.

Now available in over 110 countries and regions, the brand earned Marie Claire's 2025 Makeup Award for "Best Luxury Powder Eyeshadow" with one of its palettes.

Another brand, Flower Knows, recognized for its dreamy, fairy-tale-style packaging, quickly went viral in China after launching in 2016, thanks to its unique design concept as well as close collaborations with social media influencers.

Following its success in the domestic market, the brand expanded into Japan, where the company said its products are sold in over 1,000 stores. Flower Knows has also secured a partnership with Urban Outfitters, one of the leading fashion and lifestyle retailers in the US.

The brand has attracted over 2 million followers on Instagram. US pop star Sabrina Carpenter was recently seen holding one of their products on a film set.

Flower Knows is in discussions with major US beauty retailers like Sephora and Ulta Beauty to showcase their products, according to the company's chief marketing officer Gong Fang.

Cong, the finance professor, said the US market could prove to be more profitable than the Chinese market because of its significantly higher household spending. In addition, success in the world market would "confer a powerful 'halo effect' of global prestige" and enhance brand value everywhere, including in China.

He warned, however: "This potential is tempered by significant geopolitical risks, including tariffs and regulatory scrutiny, which add direct costs and uncertainty. Thus, while the US market could become more financially profitable for certain brands, its primary value for many will likely remain strategic."

After the US administration in May eliminated the "de minimis "exemption by imposing duties on packages under $800 coming from China, businesses like Shein and Temu experienced a sharp decline in sales.

In the first week of May, FedEx reported a 35 percent drop in packages arriving in the US from Asia. In response to the policy change, Temu and Shein opened warehouses on US soil to facilitate domestic shipping. They also raised their prices. Shein increased prices by as much as 377 percent, according to Bloomberg.

Brands like Flower Knows emphasize that marketing is more important than ever during this period.

"I have a very strong belief in manufacturing power in China, and we are living proof of that as well," said Fang. "Tariffs force us to innovate and focus more on establishing unique brand positioning. C-beauty should go beyond competitiveness in pricing and agility. We'll turn constraints into chances to redefine 'Made in China'."

bilinlin@chinadailyusa.com