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Tea breaks with tradition

Present-day iterations of Hong Kong's beloved cha chaan teng are often about memorializing elements of the traditional model. Faye Bradley reports.

By Faye Bradley | HK EDITION | Updated: 2021-12-31 19:41
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Jeremy Pang, chef and founder of the London-based, Asian-focused School of Wok culinary school, checks noodles. [PHOTO PROVIDED TO CHINA DAILY]
Iberico barbecue pork, an organic Japanese egg, Japanese rice and aged soy sauce go into Holt's Café's premium char siu rice. [PHOTO PROVIDED TO CHINA DAILY]

But not everyone is on board with the idea of tampering with cha chaan tengs' traditional features. Daniella Wu, a 20-something born and raised in Hong Kong, prefers the old-school joints. "I'm a sucker for nostalgia, and particularly when dining with family, we love to hit up a no-frills, old-but-gold, traditional establishment for the authentic vibes," she says. Rachel Edjan, another local in her 20s, agrees: "There is something about the rigidness and below-average customer service that always makes me feel at home."

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