"Gabrielle Chanel was going against all the rules of the market at that time. She had very different ideas from all the older men running 19th century brands of big high jewelry houses.

"She wanted her jewelry to be chosen by women, and worn by them. There was this idea of independence, freedom and style－she liked to present all her pieces on a wax bust."

All this made the first and only Bijoux de Diamonts collection in 1932 revolutionary for the time, Grangie says. "High jewelry has never been quite the same after that".

Chanel is one of the few fashion houses in the world to launch two full collections of high jewelry every year, Grangie says. These new creations feature different themes. For example, one of the most popular pieces in a collection a few years ago were inspired by sailors' tattoos.

After meeting with clients as young as 25 years old in Shanghai, Grangie says the concept of women buying for themselves has not changed over the years: "They know that luxury is about passing on from generation to generation－that's its key component. But what they are truly interested in is something that looks and feels different, something they want for themselves."