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During the 1990s, from my first visit in 1994, Kunming was steadily undergoing transformation. A major stimulus for this was the 1999 World Horticultural Exposition. With its mild climate, Kunming feels "in bloom" with flowers all year including its iconic Camellia. In response, the city underwent a considerable makeover leading toward the modern Kunming we see today. Tourists started flocking to Yunnan, helped by this greatly improved infrastructure initiated by the Expo.

Annually, Kunming became my staging post for onward Yunnan travel adventures including heading to the border with Vietnam by the historic narrow gauge railway. However, every visit to the city led to increasing discoveries in and around its surroundings.

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