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The darkened halls, with a pervasive aroma of incense , and lit with flickering butter lamps were fascinating to slowly wander through. However what really attracted me was the opportunity to scramble up a nearby slope to a hilltop pavilion. Sitting there, the view was inspiring but so was the music drifting up from the temple. It was a song, I was informed, of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau sung by Li Ma. Back in Baotou I bought a recording of it which kept intriguing me until later that year, 1997, I reached Qinghai and in 2000 finally got up to Tibet itself.

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