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Gradually the railway descended from that plateau toward the Yellow River’s Great Bend. Human presence noticeably intensified with greater cultivation, larger villages, scattered towns. Children cycled to school along paths winding between fields of ripening sweet corn and sunflowers. The rural gradually giving way to an increasingly urban landscape of factories, apartment buildings, water towers alongside many people performing morning exercise. We were pulling into Hohhot, its sky revealing a stunning blue!

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