Adjacent bustling seafood markets provided a cacophony of noises, with traders shouting out prices per jin followed by lengthy but usually friendly haggling. With so many different fish and aquatic products on display, some freshly caught and others dried and saltedit proved very colorful and an excuse to hide from the strong sunshine outside.

By Chinese standards, Beihai was relatively small, but is today a fast-growing city. With a sub-tropical climate modified by its maritime proximity, daytime temperatures can be hot and sultry. Howeverit was pleasant to walk around in the evening. Night markets opened up at dusk in the older areas, offering unique dining experiences where vendors rapidly transformed fresh ingredients into tasty meals. Unlike today, in 1999 there were no western restaurants or bars, no fast food — just local Options. During my week in Beihai, I became part of the “family” at a local restaurant opposite my hotel on Zhongshan Road. I was sad to say goodbye — a familiar story along my personal China journey.

The climate encouraged lush tropical vegetation, flowers and an atmosphere of a “garden city” enhanced by scented aromas. Combining blue sky with palm-lined boulevards, there was an almost Hawaii-like feel to the city’s newer areas. With some of China’s best atmospheric conditions, Beihai was already regarded as one of China’s most livable cities, indeed a place for a comfortable retirement.

In present times with its now excellent air, rail, road and marine connections Beihai is marketing itself as a top tourism destination. Despite being open internationally since 1982, both domestic and international tourism in the late ‘90s still felt in its infancy — a very different scene from today.